Awful indoor session.
Excuses include; drinking last night, it being fucking hot in the wall, lack of rest (?) lack of psyche(?)
No power on anything, i defiantly seem to lose that extra "edge" of power not training on plastic quite as much.
Chin up you miserable twat!
Saturday, 26 June 2010
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A big up to byron who did the left wall traverse (7b, Parisella's) with his spacky leg :)
...also the news is bob is currently ticking his way through the welsh classics.... king of drunks and the cromlech roof crack, beasted!
Feeling like i've slacked off the old training a bit with getting out so much (obviously no bad thing!), so after work tonight i'm going to save some petrol pennies and have a bit of a board/campus session and get a reet good sweat on!
...also the news is bob is currently ticking his way through the welsh classics.... king of drunks and the cromlech roof crack, beasted!
Feeling like i've slacked off the old training a bit with getting out so much (obviously no bad thing!), so after work tonight i'm going to save some petrol pennies and have a bit of a board/campus session and get a reet good sweat on!
Friday, 25 June 2010
...and the good weather keeps coming!
...another round up of the last few weeks!
Myself, Byron and Paddy shot to north wales for a 2 day trip....
The first day saw us at the cave where paddy dispatched the right wall traverse, his first V6/7a, great success! I repeated a few things and managed to link sections of lou ferrino together, very much de-psyched by the cave for the moment though. Byron showed me his mental "miss all the bad holds" beta on clever cleaver and looked very strong on the full 7c link from the sit. He then went on to bash out the pill box original with ease, a pretty stiff v6/7a.
With the sun heading down we then headed to the little orme to meet up with bob and his imperial uni cronies and check out angel bay. A pretty uninspiring venue in my personal opinion although a good time was had by all dossing about on the beach.
Beer and burger in spoons and a night at the imperial uni climbing hut with no water supply!
The next day we headed to the pass for a general mooch about. I got spanked by jerry's roof again, i think there is a bit of a mental block issue with this problem so i've decided to just forget about it for the time being! I had a quick look at/play on the lizard king which is on an amazing bloc up on the hillside (looks like a potential for next time) and did a few problems there up to 7a+. Bob dispatched the heel hook traverse and him and byron got agonizingly close to the cromlech roof crack.
A good little trip, lots of easy problems done and fucking glorious views and weather!
Boulderers and blue sky and Byron on Pill Box Original.
Home and rest. ...headed to ravens tor with gav. Ben's roof went down first time this time round woooooo! I also did powerhumps (the hard way) which is hard! Shot back a couple of days later with gav and max and i managed to bust out the powerband which was cool.
Ben's Roof.
Powerband.
Yesterday i headed to the churnet with max to check out Ina's rock with dom and eddie. We met them at wrights where after a warm up we all had attempts at thumbs (its still nails) and the route fingers in every pie (E6 6c). First time I've tied in for a while but it was great fun :D
Dom on Fingers in Every Pie and Eddie getting ballsy at Ina's.
We then headed for Ina's. Dom and I did Ina City Riot a really cool e4 6b solo. Eddie showed off hiss massive kahonas by soling some very high things. I then jumped on Thumbalina a super highball v6 or e6 6b, managed this second go. Absolutely amazing route and left me fully buzzed for the rest of the day! Finished off with doing jacquimo (an awful 7b) and trying Cornelius which looks amazing and goes at highball v9/7c or E8. Very Keen for this.
The high top out of Thumbalina.
All in all a cracking week or so!
Myself, Byron and Paddy shot to north wales for a 2 day trip....
The first day saw us at the cave where paddy dispatched the right wall traverse, his first V6/7a, great success! I repeated a few things and managed to link sections of lou ferrino together, very much de-psyched by the cave for the moment though. Byron showed me his mental "miss all the bad holds" beta on clever cleaver and looked very strong on the full 7c link from the sit. He then went on to bash out the pill box original with ease, a pretty stiff v6/7a.
With the sun heading down we then headed to the little orme to meet up with bob and his imperial uni cronies and check out angel bay. A pretty uninspiring venue in my personal opinion although a good time was had by all dossing about on the beach.
Beer and burger in spoons and a night at the imperial uni climbing hut with no water supply!
The next day we headed to the pass for a general mooch about. I got spanked by jerry's roof again, i think there is a bit of a mental block issue with this problem so i've decided to just forget about it for the time being! I had a quick look at/play on the lizard king which is on an amazing bloc up on the hillside (looks like a potential for next time) and did a few problems there up to 7a+. Bob dispatched the heel hook traverse and him and byron got agonizingly close to the cromlech roof crack.
A good little trip, lots of easy problems done and fucking glorious views and weather!
Boulderers and blue sky and Byron on Pill Box Original.Home and rest. ...headed to ravens tor with gav. Ben's roof went down first time this time round woooooo! I also did powerhumps (the hard way) which is hard! Shot back a couple of days later with gav and max and i managed to bust out the powerband which was cool.
Ben's Roof.
Powerband.
Yesterday i headed to the churnet with max to check out Ina's rock with dom and eddie. We met them at wrights where after a warm up we all had attempts at thumbs (its still nails) and the route fingers in every pie (E6 6c). First time I've tied in for a while but it was great fun :D
Dom on Fingers in Every Pie and Eddie getting ballsy at Ina's.We then headed for Ina's. Dom and I did Ina City Riot a really cool e4 6b solo. Eddie showed off hiss massive kahonas by soling some very high things. I then jumped on Thumbalina a super highball v6 or e6 6b, managed this second go. Absolutely amazing route and left me fully buzzed for the rest of the day! Finished off with doing jacquimo (an awful 7b) and trying Cornelius which looks amazing and goes at highball v9/7c or E8. Very Keen for this.
The high top out of Thumbalina.
All in all a cracking week or so!
Tuesday, 15 June 2010
The Tor
Met up with tommy williams and slow stevo at the tor yesterday. Tom cruised bens roof shortly after sussing the moves... sickening. I managed to fall twice at the very end, almost cried, need some stamina. We all had a bash at the powerband, stevo making the final move look path! Good little session although no successes.
Whizzed in to the roaches on the way home for a bit of a mooch around, i did the nadins traverse into slopes traverse which is a good pumpy link and had a go at mushin'... its still nails!
Whizzed in to the roaches on the way home for a bit of a mooch around, i did the nadins traverse into slopes traverse which is a good pumpy link and had a go at mushin'... its still nails!
Sunday, 13 June 2010
Round Up
With the (mostly) good weather of the last few weeks we have been getting out quite a lot.
Had a few good sessions at ravens tor with dom, eddie and gav which resulted in a few cool things done. On friday i went up with eddie after work and fell off the actual last move of bens roof... it was a head in hands moment, although im pretty chuffed with the progress. I also fell on the powerband with my right hand in the final undercut....this is a total one move wonder!
Last weekend i met up with tom newbury and dave westlake for some south lakes action! On the saturday evening i got up to trowbarrow for a quick one, did jazz phonemena and had a bash at both wheelbarrow and iron man. Sick Lines. Sunday i was shown the delights of woodwell and woodwell oert road, had a quality day out and felt absolutely destroyed by the end!
Yesterday saw an epic woodwell afternoon/evening session go down! After picking up Danger B "double oh" Cock of the Antarctic (king of beers) we were on our way and fully psyched.
Lots of climbing was done... bob was looking fit and strong from his strict vegetarian diet and tree climbing training in hyde park and got stuck into some classics... he cruised some of the toms roof classics but managed to ping off the easier upper moves of the crushinator about 3 times. Doh, next time eh. Gav managed the screaming slave, effort, and I did the art of self destruction which is very cool, super psyched!
Had a few good sessions at ravens tor with dom, eddie and gav which resulted in a few cool things done. On friday i went up with eddie after work and fell off the actual last move of bens roof... it was a head in hands moment, although im pretty chuffed with the progress. I also fell on the powerband with my right hand in the final undercut....this is a total one move wonder!
Last weekend i met up with tom newbury and dave westlake for some south lakes action! On the saturday evening i got up to trowbarrow for a quick one, did jazz phonemena and had a bash at both wheelbarrow and iron man. Sick Lines. Sunday i was shown the delights of woodwell and woodwell oert road, had a quality day out and felt absolutely destroyed by the end!
Yesterday saw an epic woodwell afternoon/evening session go down! After picking up Danger B "double oh" Cock of the Antarctic (king of beers) we were on our way and fully psyched.
Lots of climbing was done... bob was looking fit and strong from his strict vegetarian diet and tree climbing training in hyde park and got stuck into some classics... he cruised some of the toms roof classics but managed to ping off the easier upper moves of the crushinator about 3 times. Doh, next time eh. Gav managed the screaming slave, effort, and I did the art of self destruction which is very cool, super psyched!
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