Went to the cave with stevo, tommy, byron and jay kay.
Pissed it down the entire journey there but was in mint condition!
I did trigger cut, yes!
Me and tommy did the sam's finish sitter (tom 2nd go) and stevo did the stand up very quickly. Byron blasted out rock atrocity for his 4th v9!
We all had a play on lots of stuff and i managed a pretty spectacular tumble on a very feeble attempt at loui armstrong = sore back.
psyched.
Monday, 23 August 2010
Saturday, 21 August 2010
Wee update
Bit of churnet action, got scared on thumablina again. More respect for this route needed i think, eddy got some cool snaps though...
Spent the following day in work completely zombie-fied, getting scared made me tired :)
Few good plastic sessions... bit of fingerboarding and campusing which was good to get back on after a layoff.
Cave with byron and tommy... byron did lou ferrino and we've a beaver (7c), a cracking day for him! Tommy looked good on pilgrim (8a+) and i should have done trigger cut, dropping the last move.
Met, chatted to and got a hand drawn topo off chris davies and dave noddings which was pretty slick!
Spent the following day in work completely zombie-fied, getting scared made me tired :)
Few good plastic sessions... bit of fingerboarding and campusing which was good to get back on after a layoff.
Cave with byron and tommy... byron did lou ferrino and we've a beaver (7c), a cracking day for him! Tommy looked good on pilgrim (8a+) and i should have done trigger cut, dropping the last move.
Met, chatted to and got a hand drawn topo off chris davies and dave noddings which was pretty slick!
Sunday, 15 August 2010
Detox and psyche
Its been a pretty binge-y week this week so a bit of a detox is on the cards. I've decided to slack off the booze for a while as it always results in epic deviations from the healthy eating, not good for the crankin'!
I perfomed the two currys in one day trick last saturday and wednesday and ended up in a cake eating competition at lastnights work doo after eating shitloads before hand! The good news is that the psyche is super high!
I've decided i need to get on a bit of projecting, pretty keen to put some sessions in to get some hard things done.
Pretty low amounts of rock action this week... i had a early morning blast to the tor and beginners wall early in the week, keen to get back here to get a few things done.
...and yesterday eddie, dom and i hit up the cave and had a top quality session! The boys performed well, eddie haveing never been and dom once years ago. A bit of cave psych has returned, i did sam's finish and should have done the sitter, i'll bust this out next time before getting to work on broken sam. I also felt the best ever on trigger cut getting close to holding the shot hole. Phil popped down and looked at his normal level of beastlyness, getting close to halfway house and having a good bash at loui armstrong.
Dom on lip service and eddie on bust lip.
Philbo on halfway house and getting his gurn on loui armstrong
After finishing at the cave and feeling fairly tuckered out we went to the liverpool wall for a bit of a pre party session on the routes and problems there. We then all got royally fucked up with the rest of the awesome walls team... met some top chaps!
I perfomed the two currys in one day trick last saturday and wednesday and ended up in a cake eating competition at lastnights work doo after eating shitloads before hand! The good news is that the psyche is super high!
I've decided i need to get on a bit of projecting, pretty keen to put some sessions in to get some hard things done.
Pretty low amounts of rock action this week... i had a early morning blast to the tor and beginners wall early in the week, keen to get back here to get a few things done.
...and yesterday eddie, dom and i hit up the cave and had a top quality session! The boys performed well, eddie haveing never been and dom once years ago. A bit of cave psych has returned, i did sam's finish and should have done the sitter, i'll bust this out next time before getting to work on broken sam. I also felt the best ever on trigger cut getting close to holding the shot hole. Phil popped down and looked at his normal level of beastlyness, getting close to halfway house and having a good bash at loui armstrong.
Dom on lip service and eddie on bust lip.
Philbo on halfway house and getting his gurn on loui armstrong
After finishing at the cave and feeling fairly tuckered out we went to the liverpool wall for a bit of a pre party session on the routes and problems there. We then all got royally fucked up with the rest of the awesome walls team... met some top chaps!
Sunday, 8 August 2010
Stuff
Lots of work on this week so had a few sessions slotted in before/after work.
Monday gav and i went to sean's roof.... good video of the stuff here. I did most of the stuff there, orange si (a nails 7b), my friend flicka (7b) and paint it black (7c) were standouts. Paint it black is a really good quality crimpy prow problem.
Paint it black, 7c
Tuesday i had an early blast up to the churnet, i tried thumbs again (still getting spanked) and got on the project dyno up at wrights rock. Its a looooong way but fairly keen to do this. I then ran over to the virgin wall to check it out. Managed to fall 4 times at the end of the virgin traverse (7b). Its got some quite technical pebble pulling at the end, not really my strong point but it needs to be done!
After work on thursday a few of us shot up to the cave for an evening sesh and cave bivvy. I got fairly spanked on the harder things, cave de-psych. Friday after slacking off eveything hard i did a few things on the front i hadn't done before which was nice and did a load of long linkups....turned out to be a pretty good training sesh! Gav did rock atrocity, big up!
Out for a 21st in belper yesterday, 2 currys and lots of beer..... a run and salad in order tonight then!
Even more work this week so may be mostly plastic pulling :/
Monday gav and i went to sean's roof.... good video of the stuff here. I did most of the stuff there, orange si (a nails 7b), my friend flicka (7b) and paint it black (7c) were standouts. Paint it black is a really good quality crimpy prow problem.
Paint it black, 7c
Tuesday i had an early blast up to the churnet, i tried thumbs again (still getting spanked) and got on the project dyno up at wrights rock. Its a looooong way but fairly keen to do this. I then ran over to the virgin wall to check it out. Managed to fall 4 times at the end of the virgin traverse (7b). Its got some quite technical pebble pulling at the end, not really my strong point but it needs to be done!
After work on thursday a few of us shot up to the cave for an evening sesh and cave bivvy. I got fairly spanked on the harder things, cave de-psych. Friday after slacking off eveything hard i did a few things on the front i hadn't done before which was nice and did a load of long linkups....turned out to be a pretty good training sesh! Gav did rock atrocity, big up!
Out for a 21st in belper yesterday, 2 currys and lots of beer..... a run and salad in order tonight then!
Even more work this week so may be mostly plastic pulling :/
Sunday, 1 August 2010
5 days on!
May have hit it a bit hard this week... :/
...been a good one though!
Few good training session's, a fantastic trip up to the bowderstone and a evening razz and kip out at the churnet!
Wednesday gav, dom, tom and I went up to the lakes for another bowderstone mission. Between us we did a lot of new stuff.
Gav did ears of perception (7b/V8) and him and dom did the power pinch (7a+/V7ish), effort chaps. Me and tom did frank, a classy 7c/v9 extension to inaudabile vaudabile, tom did his best malcolm smith impression with spring chicken (7c/v9) and i did the the low traverse into impropa opera (a probably soft 7c+/v10) after breakfast on thursday morning. Lots of the easier stuff was ticked as well, all quality problems!
Tom fluffed the final move on both the low traverse/grand opera link (8a/V11) and the lateral gruntings/impropa opera link (8a/V11)! Doh! Next time sonny jim.
I got shut down on impropa opera lefthand (7c/v9) and grand opera (7c+/v10) again so keen to get back for these and maybe the lateral gruntings/impropa linkage.
We stopped off at trowbarrow thursday afternoon for a quick play as it was en route home. Pretty foolish as we all felt fucked and only stayed an hour or so. I made some progress on iron man but it still feels pretty nails.
Tommy on low traverse/grand opera and me on frank.
After work yesterday, where i spent all day weather watching and praying for dry rock, me and gav went to the churnet and found... dry rock! winner.
We had a quick whizz up to ousal, where i finally did the ousal traverse, a cool v6/7a traverse that denied me and phil last year. I repeated bizarre (very soft at 7c) and gav had a good bash, it's a banging set of moves!
Me and gav on bizarre
We then went to Ina's rock where i was super psyched to get on cornelius. After repeating thumbalina i jumped on it and pretty soon got through the low crux section to the scary rock over move. I should have done it but the encroaching darkness, shit head torch and generally being a fag meant that i didn't commit to the match on the slopey rail. Very very psyched for this.
Youtube Vid of first ascent
After calling it a night on cornelius me and eddy i solo'd most of the stuff up there, probably a pretty stupid idea in the dark.... Ina city riot (E4 6b), whispering myth (E3 5c) and lethal weapon (E5 6a) recieved the head torch treatment! Eddie performed a pretty good trick of ripping off a crimp and tumbling to the mat's....twice.
Back in the shop today finding bugs and bits of twig's all over myself from last nights bivvy. Feeling absolutely destroyed and very up for a night of nothingness after work!
...been a good one though!
Few good training session's, a fantastic trip up to the bowderstone and a evening razz and kip out at the churnet!
Wednesday gav, dom, tom and I went up to the lakes for another bowderstone mission. Between us we did a lot of new stuff.
Gav did ears of perception (7b/V8) and him and dom did the power pinch (7a+/V7ish), effort chaps. Me and tom did frank, a classy 7c/v9 extension to inaudabile vaudabile, tom did his best malcolm smith impression with spring chicken (7c/v9) and i did the the low traverse into impropa opera (a probably soft 7c+/v10) after breakfast on thursday morning. Lots of the easier stuff was ticked as well, all quality problems!
Tom fluffed the final move on both the low traverse/grand opera link (8a/V11) and the lateral gruntings/impropa opera link (8a/V11)! Doh! Next time sonny jim.
I got shut down on impropa opera lefthand (7c/v9) and grand opera (7c+/v10) again so keen to get back for these and maybe the lateral gruntings/impropa linkage.
We stopped off at trowbarrow thursday afternoon for a quick play as it was en route home. Pretty foolish as we all felt fucked and only stayed an hour or so. I made some progress on iron man but it still feels pretty nails.
Tommy on low traverse/grand opera and me on frank.
After work yesterday, where i spent all day weather watching and praying for dry rock, me and gav went to the churnet and found... dry rock! winner.
We had a quick whizz up to ousal, where i finally did the ousal traverse, a cool v6/7a traverse that denied me and phil last year. I repeated bizarre (very soft at 7c) and gav had a good bash, it's a banging set of moves!
Me and gav on bizarre
We then went to Ina's rock where i was super psyched to get on cornelius. After repeating thumbalina i jumped on it and pretty soon got through the low crux section to the scary rock over move. I should have done it but the encroaching darkness, shit head torch and generally being a fag meant that i didn't commit to the match on the slopey rail. Very very psyched for this.
Youtube Vid of first ascent
After calling it a night on cornelius me and eddy i solo'd most of the stuff up there, probably a pretty stupid idea in the dark.... Ina city riot (E4 6b), whispering myth (E3 5c) and lethal weapon (E5 6a) recieved the head torch treatment! Eddie performed a pretty good trick of ripping off a crimp and tumbling to the mat's....twice.
Back in the shop today finding bugs and bits of twig's all over myself from last nights bivvy. Feeling absolutely destroyed and very up for a night of nothingness after work!
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