Wednesday, 24 November 2010

Not font fit

Myself and philbo are off to font on saturday for a week. We are living it large with a gite and a double bed (to share) this time. Byron and bob have been out there for a month or so already and a friend sam (schofield) is heading out on thursday... these guys will all overlap with us slightly so we should have a full on team for the first few days!

I have done very little in the way of climbing the past week or so, psyche issues and waayyyy too much booze and chocolate. My "get fit quick campaign" for this week is underway though so fingers crossed for me not being entirley shit when we get there :) Phil is in devastating form and will probably do everything in the forest!

Big up to dom who is currently out there (the powers that be wouldn't let us go together) ticking his way through some classics and sleeping in caves... apparently.

Sunday, 14 November 2010

Font Psyche

Myself and dom had a banging day in wales on tuesday... the plan was to get to the pass/ogwen but weather changed the plan. After a bit of a mooch around trying to warm up on the roadside block we slacked it and attempted to find the PAC MAN boulders. Attempting being the operative word... we ended up spending about an hour trekking around the moors which resulted in very wet feet and no climbing!

We headed to porth ysgo as dom had never been and had an amazing afternoon. Weather and conditions were amazing and we ran around like headless chickens ticking most of the classics. I failed on popcorn party again, desperate! Dom dispatched this pretty quick and we both did the truth sitter, a top notch problem!


Yesterday i headed to pantymwyn early doors to get the be ruthless sitter done. I did it but it was a bit of a battle. I managed to drop the slopey jug twice before eventually doing the deed. Pretty chuffed! I also did the gasoline sitter, a really good quality problem.

Myself and phil have booked our gite for font and the excitement is high! :D

Sunday, 7 November 2010

a day in the hills

Myself and Gav headed to north wales yesterday (partly so i could get a pad...... i got a mondo, it just fits in!) for some action. I was pretty keen to go and try jerry's problem at the sheep pen but it was drenched. We stayed up at the sheep pen where i did the pinch (classic) and a few other things. Its an amazing spot and, save for one passing shower, we had mint conditions! Psyched to return and give jerry's a go.

We also checked out the caseg boulders near Beddgelert. After an interesting and very cold river crossing i preceded to get spanked :) I did the caseg groove, prob one of the best of its grade around.

Was very nice to be in the mountains again! Fingers crossed for more good weather this week.

Gav working the pinch, 7a+


Nature n shit

Wednesday, 3 November 2010

Back to the 'mwyn

Blasted back here on monday and ticked be ruthless... it went pretty easily on my second attempt. Feels nice to do something hard-ish after not climbing for so long. I then jumped straight on the sitter (7c+) and almost did it first go but failed getting my left heel high enough for the last hard move. I had a few more close attempts but soon got powered out.

I tried gasoline (7b+), one of the newer problems there. I did the stand (7a+) after a few shots but failed on the full link, didn't feel too hard just a bit too fatigued.

I repeated thug mentality and mental extension so I am very keen to try and get the full link, thug mental, which goes at a hard 7c+ so I've read....

I'm hoping this place doesn't get too affected by the shitty rain we've been having otherwise it may well be out of action soon until next year :/


Shopping list for this week:
One big bouldering mat that will fit in the fiesta. Mondo? hmmmm