Me and byron are for our 3 month euro-burl fest! Neither of us are in fighting shape but we figure you can't get better training than a month in font ehy!?
The semi-plan is font, south france for some routeing then over to swizzy. We will see what happens. Holiday psyched :)
Susies MOT'd up and pretty much fully packed, Lets Go!
Thursday, 17 March 2011
Getting back to it
These past weeks have been goooood! Lots of training last week, to the point of KO'ing about half 9 each night, and a lot of rock this week. I'm feeling the fitness slowly but surely building back up... just in time really as me and byron are heading off in the next few weeks!
Checked out the clifftop boulders and rowtor rocks with byron and gav on saturday, we all loved the crags and did a good range of problems, kudos to the b-man and g-man for doing blood falls (7b) pretty quick.
On the sunday i checked out a crag in cwm idwal, ogwen, with tommy. Weather was gorgeous but we were climbing in the bitter shade of the hills. We did a lot of problems up to 7a+ish with tom smashing the punk... a sweet, dynamic 7c up in't hills!

Tom on the punk, 7c
Monday i met up with dom and eddy at the roaches, dom had already done piece of mind (e6 6b) at about half 8 that morning! I got there to find them attempting barriers in time (e6 6b) and got a few snaps.

Eddy on barriers
Dom and i then headed east to rowtor and gardoms. I did the yogurt hypnotist in a smattering of attempts, first hard-ish thing since my massive lay off, psyched. Dom proved his grit prowess by doing this, blood falls and the truly desperate bus stop mantel (7a+). We then shot to gardoms so i could try suavito, an amazing arete that goes at 7b+ or old skool e5. I should have done it, 4 split tips being my excuse. Keen to return!

Dom on the yogurt hypnotist, 7b
Yesterday i was all prepped for a plastic session at stockport but byrons pantymyn contact informed us all was dry so we shot there for an evening session. It was banging, perfect temps and a chilled atmosphere. We repeated stuff up to 7b, byron was looking good on the be ruthless sitter (7c+) and i got very close to repeating the stand up (7c)
Good times!
Checked out the clifftop boulders and rowtor rocks with byron and gav on saturday, we all loved the crags and did a good range of problems, kudos to the b-man and g-man for doing blood falls (7b) pretty quick.
On the sunday i checked out a crag in cwm idwal, ogwen, with tommy. Weather was gorgeous but we were climbing in the bitter shade of the hills. We did a lot of problems up to 7a+ish with tom smashing the punk... a sweet, dynamic 7c up in't hills!
Tom on the punk, 7c
Monday i met up with dom and eddy at the roaches, dom had already done piece of mind (e6 6b) at about half 8 that morning! I got there to find them attempting barriers in time (e6 6b) and got a few snaps.
Eddy on barriers
Dom and i then headed east to rowtor and gardoms. I did the yogurt hypnotist in a smattering of attempts, first hard-ish thing since my massive lay off, psyched. Dom proved his grit prowess by doing this, blood falls and the truly desperate bus stop mantel (7a+). We then shot to gardoms so i could try suavito, an amazing arete that goes at 7b+ or old skool e5. I should have done it, 4 split tips being my excuse. Keen to return!
Dom on the yogurt hypnotist, 7b
Yesterday i was all prepped for a plastic session at stockport but byrons pantymyn contact informed us all was dry so we shot there for an evening session. It was banging, perfect temps and a chilled atmosphere. We repeated stuff up to 7b, byron was looking good on the be ruthless sitter (7c+) and i got very close to repeating the stand up (7c)
Good times!
Sunday, 20 February 2011
Soul Searching
It has been a while since my last post, mostly because since then i have done knaff all! Totally lost it for climbing for a few months, what a knobber.
Font was a bit of a right of.... we got one and half days of climbing in a week of torrential snow. Phil did 2 of the big 4 in day though, a sterling effort.
What we lacked in climbing we made up for in drinking with 90 bottles of beer, 2 bottles of wine, a bottle of gin and a bottle of rum consumed in the week between the two of us. BeerLAD.
I have been back on "it" for a about a week now and feel so much better for it... mostly training but yesterday i had a cracking outing to thorn crag, somewhere i have never been. Due to car issues i ended up going on my own... i saw no one all day, just me and the rocks! (blah blah, meaningful shit). It wasn't in the best nick, being shrouded in cloud, lots of snow and damp rock but i salvaged a good day. Defiantly keen to head back to tick some cool things on dry rock!
The exciting news is that byron and i are heading round europe for 3 month boulder/route fest, very psyched, leaving at the beginning of april so i should be back to some sort of form by then to :)
I also have a 3 week holiday to canada with the fam and an additional two week stay over =SQUAMISH!!!! Im in the process of D.I.Ying a travel fingerboard for the three weeks in tourist mode. Sad?

DIY!
A trip to the rocklands is also on the cards, octoberish time.
All in all pretty exciting.
Bob and byron have earned themselves some nice little ticks, byron did the thug mental traverse at pantymwyn (7c+) and bob smashed rock attrocity for his first (7c)... although training has rendered his elbows useless leaving ARC training his only climbing related activity. Dom (currently in font) has been in good form to, ticking his way through a lot of grit classics.

Arc/bridge training
Font was a bit of a right of.... we got one and half days of climbing in a week of torrential snow. Phil did 2 of the big 4 in day though, a sterling effort.
What we lacked in climbing we made up for in drinking with 90 bottles of beer, 2 bottles of wine, a bottle of gin and a bottle of rum consumed in the week between the two of us. BeerLAD.
I have been back on "it" for a about a week now and feel so much better for it... mostly training but yesterday i had a cracking outing to thorn crag, somewhere i have never been. Due to car issues i ended up going on my own... i saw no one all day, just me and the rocks! (blah blah, meaningful shit). It wasn't in the best nick, being shrouded in cloud, lots of snow and damp rock but i salvaged a good day. Defiantly keen to head back to tick some cool things on dry rock!
The exciting news is that byron and i are heading round europe for 3 month boulder/route fest, very psyched, leaving at the beginning of april so i should be back to some sort of form by then to :)
I also have a 3 week holiday to canada with the fam and an additional two week stay over =SQUAMISH!!!! Im in the process of D.I.Ying a travel fingerboard for the three weeks in tourist mode. Sad?
DIY!
A trip to the rocklands is also on the cards, octoberish time.
All in all pretty exciting.
Bob and byron have earned themselves some nice little ticks, byron did the thug mental traverse at pantymwyn (7c+) and bob smashed rock attrocity for his first (7c)... although training has rendered his elbows useless leaving ARC training his only climbing related activity. Dom (currently in font) has been in good form to, ticking his way through a lot of grit classics.
Arc/bridge training
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