I reckon too much time working at the wall led to de-motivation as i never escaped the climbing scene. Instead of climbing I ate and drank a LOT :/ so i am now trying to regain the old strength and fitness.
Magic wood was good, we did some quality problems. Tom especially did a lot of hard stuff, octopussy and massive attack among them. I did a good bunch of stuff up to 7c, supanova, hohenzone and jack the chipper being standouts. We met some top chaps and had a fun trip, definatly want to head back when i'm stronger. I didn't feel as psyched as normal whilst out there which was a bit annoying as i would/should have done a lot more..... leaves lots to go back for i suppose!
I had about 3 weeks off during the de-psyche and did very little in the way of any kind of fitness training so i have regressed quite a bit on that front. Have been back climbing pretty much a week now and slowly starting to get back on the game.
Last week i went to pantymyn and did thug mentality, first go this time, which goes at 7b+/7c ish. I also got fairly close to the sitter to which was encouraging. I figured some wicked beta on be ruthless (7c) and got very very close indeed. This should go next time hopefully along with the sitter. I'm pretty psyched for this crag, some good stuff to project and pretty local... winner!
Yesterday myself, phil, dom and gav headed to burbage for a full day on the grit. Me dom and gav got there early doors and were thus brutalized by the time philbo showed up. I did rocket man and repeated the nose, me and dom should have done west side story (dom falling above the jug!) and phil did zaff skoczylas and velvet crab. Phil also repeated bling date, got close to blind fig and had a good blast at voyager (!!!!), all round looking like an absolute machine.
A few of voyager.
There is talk of font for the end of nov/early dec which is muchos exciting, i am super re-psyched :)
