The Psyche Returns

I have had a real psyche issue recently which was very naughty!
I reckon too much time working at the wall led to de-motivation as i never escaped the climbing scene. Instead of climbing I ate and drank a LOT :/ so i am now trying to regain the old strength and fitness.

Magic wood was good, we did some quality problems. Tom especially did a lot of hard stuff, octopussy and massive attack among them. I did a good bunch of stuff up to 7c, supanova, hohenzone and jack the chipper being standouts. We met some top chaps and had a fun trip, definatly want to head back when i'm stronger. I didn't feel as psyched as normal whilst out there which was a bit annoying as i would/should have done a lot more..... leaves lots to go back for i suppose!

I had about 3 weeks off during the de-psyche and did very little in the way of any kind of fitness training so i have regressed quite a bit on that front. Have been back climbing pretty much a week now and slowly starting to get back on the game.

Last week i went to pantymyn and did thug mentality, first go this time, which goes at 7b+/7c ish. I also got fairly close to the sitter to which was encouraging. I figured some wicked beta on be ruthless (7c) and got very very close indeed. This should go next time hopefully along with the sitter. I'm pretty psyched for this crag, some good stuff to project and pretty local... winner!

Yesterday myself, phil, dom and gav headed to burbage for a full day on the grit. Me dom and gav got there early doors and were thus brutalized by the time philbo showed up. I did rocket man and repeated the nose, me and dom should have done west side story (dom falling above the jug!) and phil did zaff skoczylas and velvet crab. Phil also repeated bling date, got close to blind fig and had a good blast at voyager (!!!!), all round looking like an absolute machine.












A few of voyager.


There is talk of font for the end of nov/early dec which is muchos exciting, i am super re-psyched :)

I've had a fairly epic amount of shifts on as of late so there's been little to blog about! I have managed a few quick sessions here and there...

...had a look at beginners wall for quick blast after work one afternoon... did a few fun problems there and should have done neil's wall (7c), a problem similar in style (not quality) to the press at rubicon.

A few of us from work shot up to Ina's rock again after work where i managed to get even closer to cornelius, faffing the hands up and getting scared one move from the salvation of the large rugosity... doh!

Bob, nick and myself had another cave session where i managed to do the initial moves of halfway house which is a potential go-er! I also got re-acquainted with the broken heart moves in preparation for broken sam. That man nick cox almost did bust lip, was good to see the effort being applied... he did perform a good fall, slipping off with the bomber heel nicely stuck and haveing to be coaxed to the ground by yours truely! Bob was looking stronger than ever on rock atrocity managing the crux moves. On bob's recomendation we checked out a bring your on beer curry house in winsford once we got back = winner.













Me attempting halfway house, 8a+ and the cox on bust lip, 7a+.


Bob, gav and i went to kentmere's little font lastweek for an epic spanking session. We all did the hole, a pretty soft 7a+ and i did runs on a weasel which is a really good problem going at 7b. After very few more sends we retired to kendal for another banging curry and beer:/.











Bob on/in the hole, 7a+

Much love to Dom for crushing thumbalina, a cracking effort considering his smaller stature :)
...also tommy seems to be in devastating form, flashing some hard things in the south lakes, big ticks in swizz for him i reckonz!

The last week i have just hammered the training in preparation for magic wood on wednesday. Cant fucking wait, about time for some time off!

CAVE PSYCH

Went to the cave with stevo, tommy, byron and jay kay.
Pissed it down the entire journey there but was in mint condition!

I did trigger cut, yes!

Me and tommy did the sam's finish sitter (tom 2nd go) and stevo did the stand up very quickly. Byron blasted out rock atrocity for his 4th v9!

We all had a play on lots of stuff and i managed a pretty spectacular tumble on a very feeble attempt at loui armstrong = sore back.

psyched.

Wee update

Bit of churnet action, got scared on thumablina again. More respect for this route needed i think, eddy got some cool snaps though...













Spent the following day in work completely zombie-fied, getting scared made me tired :)

Few good plastic sessions... bit of fingerboarding and campusing which was good to get back on after a layoff.

Cave with byron and tommy... byron did lou ferrino and we've a beaver (7c), a cracking day for him! Tommy looked good on pilgrim (8a+) and i should have done trigger cut, dropping the last move.

Met, chatted to and got a hand drawn topo off chris davies and dave noddings which was pretty slick!

Detox and psyche

Its been a pretty binge-y week this week so a bit of a detox is on the cards. I've decided to slack off the booze for a while as it always results in epic deviations from the healthy eating, not good for the crankin'!
I perfomed the two currys in one day trick last saturday and wednesday and ended up in a cake eating competition at lastnights work doo after eating shitloads before hand! The good news is that the psyche is super high!

I've decided i need to get on a bit of projecting, pretty keen to put some sessions in to get some hard things done.

Pretty low amounts of rock action this week... i had a early morning blast to the tor and beginners wall early in the week, keen to get back here to get a few things done.

...and yesterday eddie, dom and i hit up the cave and had a top quality session! The boys performed well, eddie haveing never been and dom once years ago. A bit of cave psych has returned, i did sam's finish and should have done the sitter, i'll bust this out next time before getting to work on broken sam. I also felt the best ever on trigger cut getting close to holding the shot hole. Phil popped down and looked at his normal level of beastlyness, getting close to halfway house and having a good bash at loui armstrong.













Dom on lip service and eddie on bust lip.













Philbo on halfway house and getting his gurn on loui armstrong

After finishing at the cave and feeling fairly tuckered out we went to the liverpool wall for a bit of a pre party session on the routes and problems there. We then all got royally fucked up with the rest of the awesome walls team... met some top chaps!

Stuff

Lots of work on this week so had a few sessions slotted in before/after work.

Monday gav and i went to sean's roof.... good video of the stuff here. I did most of the stuff there, orange si (a nails 7b), my friend flicka (7b) and paint it black (7c) were standouts. Paint it black is a really good quality crimpy prow problem.



















Paint it black, 7c

Tuesday i had an early blast up to the churnet, i tried thumbs again (still getting spanked) and got on the project dyno up at wrights rock. Its a looooong way but fairly keen to do this. I then ran over to the virgin wall to check it out. Managed to fall 4 times at the end of the virgin traverse (7b). Its got some quite technical pebble pulling at the end, not really my strong point but it needs to be done!

After work on thursday a few of us shot up to the cave for an evening sesh and cave bivvy. I got fairly spanked on the harder things, cave de-psych. Friday after slacking off eveything hard i did a few things on the front i hadn't done before which was nice and did a load of long linkups....turned out to be a pretty good training sesh! Gav did rock atrocity, big up!

Out for a 21st in belper yesterday, 2 currys and lots of beer..... a run and salad in order tonight then!

Even more work this week so may be mostly plastic pulling :/

5 days on!

May have hit it a bit hard this week... :/
...been a good one though!

Few good training session's, a fantastic trip up to the bowderstone and a evening razz and kip out at the churnet!

Wednesday gav, dom, tom and I went up to the lakes for another bowderstone mission. Between us we did a lot of new stuff.

Gav did ears of perception (7b/V8) and him and dom did the power pinch (7a+/V7ish), effort chaps. Me and tom did frank, a classy 7c/v9 extension to inaudabile vaudabile, tom did his best malcolm smith impression with spring chicken (7c/v9) and i did the the low traverse into impropa opera (a probably soft 7c+/v10) after breakfast on thursday morning. Lots of the easier stuff was ticked as well, all quality problems!

Tom fluffed the final move on both the low traverse/grand opera link (8a/V11) and the lateral gruntings/impropa opera link (8a/V11)! Doh! Next time sonny jim.

I got shut down on impropa opera lefthand (7c/v9) and grand opera (7c+/v10) again so keen to get back for these and maybe the lateral gruntings/impropa linkage.

We stopped off at trowbarrow thursday afternoon for a quick play as it was en route home. Pretty foolish as we all felt fucked and only stayed an hour or so. I made some progress on iron man but it still feels pretty nails.










Tommy on low traverse/grand opera and me on frank.







After work yesterday, where i spent all day weather watching and praying for dry rock, me and gav went to the churnet and found... dry rock! winner.
We had a quick whizz up to ousal, where i finally did the ousal traverse, a cool v6/7a traverse that denied me and phil last year. I repeated bizarre (very soft at 7c) and gav had a good bash, it's a banging set of moves!













Me and gav on bizarre

We then went to Ina's rock where i was super psyched to get on cornelius. After repeating thumbalina i jumped on it and pretty soon got through the low crux section to the scary rock over move. I should have done it but the encroaching darkness, shit head torch and generally being a fag meant that i didn't commit to the match on the slopey rail. Very very psyched for this.
Youtube Vid of first ascent

After calling it a night on cornelius me and eddy i solo'd most of the stuff up there, probably a pretty stupid idea in the dark.... Ina city riot (E4 6b), whispering myth (E3 5c) and lethal weapon (E5 6a) recieved the head torch treatment! Eddie performed a pretty good trick of ripping off a crimp and tumbling to the mat's....twice.

Back in the shop today finding bugs and bits of twig's all over myself from last nights bivvy. Feeling absolutely destroyed and very up for a night of nothingness after work!